My Creative Blog [Search results for silk velvets

  • Italian and French silk velvets

    Italian and French silk velvets

    Since I mentioned in my last post that I was both a collector and antique textile dealer and my passion was Italian silk velvets I've received some lovely emails asking me to SHOW YOU'. since you've all asked so very nicely how could I resist sharing.
    It was the Chinese who first unraveled a cocoon thousands of years ago to make silk. It was the Spanish and Italians who elevated silk velvets into some of the most luxurious works of art. Velvets were among the most highly prized and most expensive luxury fabrics of the Renaissance. (Be sure to click on the picture to bring it up bigger for viewing. )

    Italian, circa 1450, Ferronerie velvet with pomegranate design, green being one of the most rare of colors. Ferronerie velvet: curved, linear woven patterns reminiscent of decorative wrought-iron work.

    Italian, 1540, brocaded/voided silk velvet featuring an ogival pattern of branches with a central pomegranate motif. The flowers, pomegranates and leaves are further embellished with boucle, a heavy gold metal thread pulled up to form loops. Due to cost by the turn of the 17th century raised metal boucle work had disappeared into history forever.

    Circa 1580 Italian symmetrical "candelabra" pattern of alto-e-basso or pile-on-pile of silk cut velvet. Called "candelabra" pattern due to the many branches in the design. Pile-on-pile refers to two layers of threads, one higher than the other. Alto-e-basso is Italian meaning high and low.

    Florentine circa 1600 cut voided pile-on-pile velvet with an extremely large flower motif brocaded in real silver metal thread. Because of the large floral design this was more than likely made for wall covering. All those light colored areas is actually the silver thread.
    The next four velvets were all woven in Genoa Italy around 1600 all being cut voided velvet. Voided velvet: when areas of the ground are left free of pile. Since projecting pile-required quantities of silk thread, voided velvet was less expensive to manufacture than solid-pile velvet or brocaded velvet.

    with silver metal thread ground, brocaded velvet

    Two toned green and red pile with tabby ground

    Small patterned velvet with strawberries

    Velvet design embroidered with gold metal thread

    17th century Italian purple voided silk velvet on a gold ground
    The firm of Maison Hamot in France and a manufacturer of Krefeld, Germany both in the 19th century perfected the art of copying silk velvet designs. The next two silk velvets are such examples both being of Byzantine designs. The third design is being of a 16th century design.

    11th Byzantine design from Maison Hamot

    Byzantine design from Krefeld

    19th century Italian of a 16th century design, Maison Hamot

    19th century stamped velvet produced by impressing a design into the pile with a steel tool.

    16th century Spanish silk velvet fabric with applied appliqu' design
    These velvets are prized today by both collectors and museums because they're no longer produced due to the fact they're extremely labor intensive to make and the cost to produce them is astronomical. I bet you didn't realize there were so many different types of velvets produced? Busy little worms huh? I'll tell you the truth here I keep more then I sell of these lovelies since I can't help myself. They cost a bloody fortune but if you see anything you like and want just ask but be willing to give up an arm, leg and your first born for it. I hope you've enjoyed our little trip through the ages of silk velvets.

  • Walk this way...

    Walk this way...

    all Italian, 16th century, silk velvets image is my own
    I've been doing some research on some new/old velvets I received this week and in my wanderings about computer land I found some tasty morsels'. amazing old shoes! I'm sorry but Manolo Blahnik has nothing on these beauties. Trish over at Trouvais is going to love these!

    Chopines shoes, circa 1600, Venice image above and below via V&A
    Shoes of this type are called chopines or pantobles. The design was based on shoes worn in Turkish baths. Could you imagine wearing shoes made of wood covered with silk velvet and trimmed with silk ribbon and gold lace?

    images of shoes and dress via book "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Francois Boucher
    Here are a couple of more chopine shoes, they don't look very easy to walk or balance in especially when you're wearing a gown like the one below.

    I think if I had to wear that heavy gown laced up my neck while balancing on the front part of my feet I too think I would need a minion to balance on!

    French, made 1750 — 1760 image via V&A
    Women's high-heeled mules, commonly known as slippers. These have a fairly high heel and a pointed toe. The velvet uppers are decorated with metal thread. The embroidery was all done by hand and without electricity to see by, amazing piece of artwork.

    England, made 1650 — 1660 image above and below via V&A
    Pair of women's mules or backless slippers are made of velvet embroidered with silver-gilt thread. From about 1550 to 1700, embroidery became very fashionable and mules were often decorated in this way. Talk about luxury!

    Pattens, Great Britain, made 1720s — 30s image via V&A
    Pattens were worn to lift the shoe out of the dirt and damp while balancing on the iron ring. The shoe would have been fastened into the patten by means of ribbon-laced latchets covered in velvet. Sounds convenient huh?

    image via Christie's auction catalog
    Pair of 18th century green silk damask shoes and a pair of pattens, both with gilt braid. These pattens don't have the iron ring but you can see how they would have fit under the shoes, that hump would have been up under the heel.

    image via Christie's auction catalog
    Yellow silk brocade shoes from the 18th century. Aren't they wonderful? Shoes like these can cost anywhere from $7000 to $14,000 at auction today and no, I didn't buy them!

    image via "Marie-Antoinette Style" by Adrien Goetz
    Aren't the shoes amazing all grouped together?

    image via my feet!
    Unfortunately it's time to come back to my reality of snow and functional but ugly footwear. Nice huh? So which century of footwear are your favorites?
    I hope you are all staying warm and dry on this very snowy day!

  • Veranda: Life in Ruins

    Veranda: Life in Ruins

    Have you seen the August issue of Veranda yet? If not run out and buy it now! Pictured on the front is a French house that was once a ruin. Why couldn't someone have discovered America sooner than 1492 so we could have a few ruins? I wouldn't mind living in a stone ruin, who cares about a little rubble when it looks this fabulous? If I can live in an 18th century dwelling with all it's quirks a little ruin is nothing!

    (All photos courtesy Veranda, photographer: Peter Vitale)

    Look at the inside guest patio, those 15th century curved stone arches, that antique tile floor'''now I ask you who wouldn't be happy there?

    The house was originally built in the 11th century and added onto each century. The kitchen area dates to the 17th century, love how they simply plastered over the arches. Just think if I could afford that house I wouldn't have to cook except when I wanted to.

    The chairs in the Renaissance hall look to be covered in tapestry that more than likely came from Michel Biehns' shop since he deals in textiles of all sorts. As an antique textile dealer myself it's killing me I can't see those chairs closer. And look at those pillows in the background hiding from me!

    I could sleep in this master bedroom all draped in Italian silks. That pillow on the bed is antique Italian silk velvet, why don't they just shoot me now? One of my passions is Italian silk velvets, I'm a collector as well as deal in velvets and I can't see that pillow well. I NEED TO SEE THAT PILLOW!

    Can you believe this is the dressing room? I wonder if it's up those stairs pictured in the master bedroom? I love how they're storing their hats in the French laundry baskets and look at that dreamy mirror, love the juxtaposition between the gilded mirror and straw baskets. Look at the baskets on top of the closets, they give you a sense of the height in the room.

    The 17th century staircase is original to the house and was restored, think of the entrance you would make coming down those stairs! Love the huge picture at the top too!

    All the silk fabrics just in this small dining room come from Antico Setificio Fiorentino in Florence Italy and can be found Here. Those sconces and chandelier are to die for! And those chairs....come to Mama! They're in that French Parisian green I love so much!
    I love how they used a nice mix of highs and lows of antiques and modern furniture so that nothing overwhelms, tough to achieve. I wish someone would come out with a magazine that shows all the accessories that decorate rooms so we could see more clearly....not to be I guess. I won't spoil the entire article for you but I couldn't resist, who wouldn't want to live in France in all that history?